Understanding the mechanics and physics of the cast will help you to optimize your casting skills and develop your own casting style. Line speed and timing, not power, will gain you more distance and control.

• You cannot make a cast until you get the end of the line moving. On the back cast, the end of the line should be lifted from the surface before the rod is loaded and the cast is made.
• The rod is a flexible lever, moving through varying arc lengths. The more help you need on the cast, the greater the arc length.
• The line and fly are going to go in the direction you accelerate and stop the rod tip at the end of the cast.
• Loop size is determined by the distance you accelerate the rod tip at the end of the cast. The faster you accelerate over that distance, combined with a quick stop, the farther the cast will travel.
• For longer casts, start the back cast lower as you lengthen the cast. All back casts should rise to some degree of elevation.
• For very long casts, you will need to bring the rod well behind your body on the back cast. Rotate the casting thumb 45 degrees away from your body, and bring your forearm 180 degrees straight back from the target (the reel faces you).

Variations on the standard cast can be used singly or in combination:

• Tuck cast -Drives weighted flies to the bottom of the stream bed.
• Bow and Arrow/Roll cast - Used when you do not have enough room for a back cast.
• Double Haul -Increases line speed and distance, especially in windy conditions. Often used by novices to simply increase line speed.
• Reach/Mend casting - Compensates for tricky currents to establish a dead drift, or to swim your fly at a certain depth and speed.
• Dump cast - A slack line cast, very useful for down stream dry fly presentations and when fishing bulky terrestrial flies.