During the past 14 plus years, I’ve had the good fortune and pleasure of spending 150 days chasing smallies in Door County.  This is the “thumb” on the map of Wisconsin that juts out into Lake Michigan.  My efforts have been rewarded with having caught and released over 4,000 smallies.

Like many of you who have fished for Great Lake’s smallies, or fished for lake smallies in general, I have tried a plethora of lures.  I’ve always tried, however, to keep it simple and not over do it.  I think I’ve done a good job of narrowing my presentations to those that work best, based on research, talking with others and through my own experience.  One presentation that usually is near the top of most Door County lists, and now at the top of mine, is swimming a grub on a jig.

For most of my years fishing Door County, swimming a grub on jig is a presentation I’ve used on a somewhat regular basis.  It is one of the easiest of all presentations.  You cast it, let it settle for a second or two and then retrieve it slowly.  I use St. Croix 7’ and 7’6” medium-light and medium action rods.  With the ultra-clear water, long casts are important.  That’s why I use the longer rods, and for the past two years the Legend Elite 7’6” medium-light has been my favorite.  I’m using reels suitable for 4- and 6-pound diameter line. Some examples of what I’m using are Shimano 1000 series reels, Daiwa 2000 reels, Pflueger 30 size and Bass Pro 10 size.

In recent years I’ve been using Berkley Fireline and Stren Microfuse in 3-pound diameter and 8-pound test (8/3), as well as Power Pro in the 2-pound diameter and 10-pound test (10/2).  I like the strength and sensitivity and usually add a mono backing so I don’t have to spool as much braid or superline.  In the ultra-clear waters of Door County, I utilize a fluorocarbon leader, which is also strong and sensitive, but can’t be seen in the water.  I began utilizing the 8 or 10-pound test fluorocarbon leader when friend and longtime Door County guide and owner of Howie’s Tackle, Tim Dwidiuk, explained how his numbers have always been better with the fluorocarbon leader, which I attach to the braid or superline with a uni to uni knot.  Based on my experience my numbers since going to the fluorocarbon leader in 2008, I agree.

Has a swimming a grub always been my “go to” presentation in Door County or on most other lakes I fish for smallies?  No, it was one of a variety of presentations I’d use.  But, now it’s my “go to” presentation, and over the past three plus seasons has truly produced some impressive results.  For years, I used a variety of grubs I received directly from a few companies, which were mostly 3-inch versions.  Most of these had a smaller profile body and fairly narrow tail.  Again, listening to Tim Dawidiuk and a few others, I began using the Kalin’s Lunker Grub in June of 2007.  I wish I wouldn’t have waited so long.  I’ve had very good success with both the 4-inch and 5-inch versions in a variety of colors, including Ed’s Smoke, Clear Smoke, Smoke Salt & Pepper, Avocado, and Blue Pearl Salt & Pepper (better in semi-clear waters).    Some other colors to consider are Pumpkin Salt & Pepper, Pumpkin Salt & Pepper/Green Flake, Green Pumpkinseed/Purple Flake and new colors for 2011, Dirty Avocado and Apple Juice.  The smoke colors work great and with the Smallies eating the gobies, which are like little “protein” bars, the colors that are similar to that of gobies.  In Door County, since the gobie invasion, the weight of the fish is phenomenal.  Years ago, a 19 inch fish would almost never break 4 pounds, but now it is not unusual for a 19 inch fish to go well over 5 pounds.  I’ve never fished a lake where I’ve caught 16+ inch fish that make 4 pounds.

I feel the key to the grubs I’ve mentioned is the full-body profile and long/tall wispy tail.  You will hear that you should swim these with the tail pointing opposite from the hook point.  Actually, this is the way the Kalin’s were designed.  I rig them tail opposite the hook point.  When the grub gets a little beat-up, I bite off a quarter inch and reverse the tail direction.  I have not noticed much, if any difference.  The smallies still seem to like it.  It’s very important to line the hook shank up with the seam so that the grub swims straight.

The jig is a very important part of this presentation and the standard “bargain bin” jig usually won’t do.  You need to use jigs in the 1/16, 3/32 and 1/8 ounce weights with a longer hook shank, which allows you to bring the hook through the grub body and out near the end of the body portion.  In the past I was using a good ball head jig, but after reading about the Mushroom Head jigs from Gopher Tackle in In-Fisherman magazine and having some sent to me by a friend from Illinois who has attended my seminars, I thought I’d better give these a try.  Now that I’ve had many days on the water with great success, I know I’ve found a super jig for swimming plastic grubs.  Gopher’s Big John’s offers an eyelet that is not only flush with the jig head, but also crossways and at an angle.  I’m mostly using the 3/32 ounce jigs.  With most of the Gopher jigs having the long shaft, a number of styles with the 2/0 or 3/0 hook will work great.  Another jig that has worked well for me is the Bait Rigs Slo-Poke GrubMaster Jig in the 1/16 and 1/8 sizes.  These were designed with the Kalin’s Grub in mind and also have the eyelet crossways and straight out the front of the jig.  Unlike a traditional jig, the weight is distributed along the hook shank.

As I noted earlier, retrieve the grub slowly in all water temperatures.  Swim it just above the bottom.  If you touch rocks, speed up your retrieve.  The smallies seem to hang close to the bottom in the two to eight feet of water that I’m usually fishing in May and June.  As noted earlier, this tendency may also be enhanced as gobies have become a major food source for the Door County smallies.  They don’t have a swim bladder and live on or near the bottom.

With the success I’ve had in Door County, I have switched to swimming the Kalin’s Lunker Grub on most of the other lakes I fish in my Crestliner 1750 Fish Hawk or in one of my Wilderness Systems kayaks.  Since the fall of 2007 swimming the Kalin’s grub has joined the Rebel Teeny Wee Crawfish as my top river smallie presentation.  Even though I’ve noted colors that work great for me, I would suggest that you experiment.

If you are planning on fishing smallies on one of the Great Lakes, another of your favorite lakes or rivers, I would encourage you to give swimming a grub on a jig a try.  I think you’ll be happy you did.

Fall is time when smallmouth are feeding veraciously preparing for the long lean winter. It’s also a time of rapidly changing weather that effects smallmouth location and feeding behavior. This means anglers will need to be ready to fish a lot of different types of water and depths. Here’s a quick run down of baits that will enable you to fish in a variety of depths and water conditions. During the fall, it is particularly important for river smallmouth anglers to have the ability to cover the top,middle, and bottom of the water column.

#1 Soft Jerkbaits (middle of the water column)
Soft jerkbaits are extremely versatile and therefore are one of my favorite fall baits. You can use soft jerkbaits to catch smallmouth that are chasing and attacking baitfish aggressively by skittering it across the top of the water or using fast jerks with a low rod tip. When smallmouth are in a more neutral feeding mood, the bait can be deadsticked with excellent results. Bottom line, this bait can be fished extremely fast, at medium speeds, at variable speeds or with no movement at all. That’s why it gets the number one spot!

Some common soft jerkbaits are the Slug-go, Zoom Flukes, and my favorite Winco’s Darter series of soft jerkbaits. The weight of the Darter series baits makes them easy to cast. Long casts are critical in the clear waters that typically comes with fall fishing.

#2 Tube Baits (bottom of the water column)
Sometimes fall smallmouth will move into deep ledge trenches and go into a more neutral feeding mood. When this happens anglers need a presentation that can get down deeper and be fished very slow. Enter the tube baits. There are a variety of rigs you can use but I usually keep it simple and rig mine on a 1/8 oz. internal tube jig head. The bait can be crawled along the bottom mimicking a crayfish. No self respecting smallmouth will pass up this presentation!

Many soft bait companies make tube baits. Companies like Venom, Strike King, Yum, and Winco’s Custom Lures offer some great tubes. Winco’s new Tasty Tube Jr. is worth a look. It has thinner profile than most tubes on the market and is great when a more finesse style presentation is needed.

#3 Walk-The-Dog Baits (top of the water column)
I was never a big fan of walk-the-dog lures for smallmouth until four years ago when I started using what I call “hybrid” walk-the-dog lures. This is really my terminology but it refers to baits that have a slightly concave face similar to a popper. The concave design makes a subtle splash during the w-t-d presentation that drives smallmouth crazy.

Remember to try varying retrieves when using these baits. Sometimes a constant w-t-d presentation is the ticket. Other times a few walks and letting the bait sit will draw vicious strikes. Very few companies make ‘hybrid” walk-the-dog baits. Two of my favorites are Storm’s Chug Bug and Winco’s Wink’s Walker.

Of course, I take a few more baits along with me when I fish. I jokingly call my kayak the “floating tackle shop”. One thing is for sure, I always make certain these three baits are tied on or within quick reaching distance when I hit the river in fall!

This time of year I get a lot of questions from fisherman about approaches to fishing river grass. Folks tend to get very frustrated after a day of pulling up salad! Honestly fishing in the river grass is one of my favorite summer time target areas.

Tip#1 Understand the grass you are fishing and its characteristics

First, I want to define what I mean by “river grass”. In my neck of the woods , central Pennsylvania, eel grass is the dominate river plant. Eel grass can choke a river leaving only very narrow channels. In the clear summer river, it can grow in some fairly deep water. Sometimes 6-8 feet.

Understanding the physical characteristics of eel grass will help us better know how to fish it effectively. Eel grass grows long and slender (like grass) and has a very distinct twisting of the individual “blades”. Eel grass can  get to be several feet long and typically grows in clumps. Because of the river current the grass very rarely creates a canopy on the waters surface. Most often the clumps will lay over forming bundles of grass that gently wave in the current.

Fish love to hide under laid down bundles of eel grass to seek shade during the heat of the day or to have a safe haven from predators. There will also be an abundance of crayfish and minnows seeking refuge in the eel grass. Smallmouth will never be far from the food source.

OK..now we understand a little about “river grass” and why we would want to fish it, so lets find out HOW it can be fished.

Tip #2 Use unweighted or lightly weighted baits

Unlike other grass situation, you’re not going to be “punching through the eel grass because it typically does not form a canopy on top of the water when current is present. You”ll typically be fishing around and possibly on top of the grass. Some of my favorite baits are unweighted nose hooked stickworms, Small 4″ or 5″  finesse worms rigged on a 1/16 oz football or jig head. Worms rigged on jig heads are great for ripp’n off the grass and drifting baits through open lanes in the grass.

Tip#3 Fish moving and casting upstream

Fishing upstream can work to your advantage in two ways. First, fish will be oriented facing upstream so your approach will be more stealthy. A stealthy approach is particularly important when you want to target trophy smallmouth bass. Second, you’ll be working your bait back downstream with the flow of the grass. This will reduce hang ups and weed covered lures significantly.

Tip#4 Find pot holes and find fish

What’s a pot hole? It’s any drop in depth associated with reduced or no weed growth. Sometimes the pot holes are only 2 or 3 square feet. Other times they can be larger. Pot holes typically indicate hard bottom which is often preferred by smallmouth holding in weedy areas.

Tip#5 Fish the lanes

Another major structural feature of areas with significant eel grass growth are “lanes”. Basically they are the open areas between the eel grass. The lanes are used like roads by baitfish that make their homes in the river grass. Smallmouth will often lay in wait under the laid down bundles of eel grass and ambush groups of baitfish that swim by.

When it comes to lures, the number one topic of discussion is almost always centered around color selection. How many times has another angler asked you, “What color are you using?”. This question often becomes more complicated when you are talking about river fishing for smallmouth bass.

The river environment is very dynamic and water conditions can change in a matter of a few hours.  Based on much of the research I’ve reviewed, smallmouth tend to be sight feeders. As a result, color selection is high on my priority list.  Factors like scent, profile, and action are certainly part of the tube equation but in the spirit of keeping it simple, I”m going to focus on color. Here’s a quick and easy breakdown that can help you narrow your color choices quickly.

In the rivers I fish smallmouth have two primary food sources, crayfish and various minnow species. The most coveted is the crayfish. Of course a tube bait is a great crayfish imitation. Water clarity is my litmus test for choosing a tube color.

In clear water conditions, I’m looking to “match the hatch” and use more natural colors. Smallmouth in clear water seem to shy away from unnatural colors. There are exceptions to every rule but I find this statement to be accurate far more often then not.

If  I’ve decided to throw a tube in clear water, I’ll select colors that match the color of the crayfish in the body of water I’m fishing. When I’m fishing familiar waters, I typically know the color of the crayfish. If I’m fishing unfamiliar waters, I’ll turn rocks and observe a few crayfish then look at my tube selection to find the closest color match. Colors like pumking, carolina pumpkin, and various shades of green or brown work well in clear water. Laminated two color baits can also be great choices because often the bottom of a crayfish is lighter than the top.

Once the water crosses the line to stained or muddy, I start looking for colors that will provide contrast. Again, I’m trying to appeal to the smallmouths sense of sight. In muddy water, I may also go to a tube with a slightly bigger profile. The goal is to make the bait stand out in stained water. Great contrasting colors are dark greens, black, and dark browns. If the water is dark, but the sun is shining I may choose a bait with red, gold, or silver metal flake…sometimes all three!

This quick and easy guide will get you on your way to success with tubes in various water condition. The key is to be aware of changes in water clarity. I’ve been around fishing long enough to know that there are very few “hard and fast” rules and I know that conditions can change rapidly. As fisherman, we need to be aware of those changes and make the right choices. Color is just one of them!

Oh yes, the good old days of grabbing a spinning rod, a pack of sinkers, and hooks to hit the cool clear waters of your local smallie creek. If you want to get back to your roots and simplify your life…at least “temporally” here’s a simple formula for getting there.

Foot wear

An old pair of sneakers can do just fine but often creek rocks are slick so you may need to look at other options. Many companies now make “river shoes” or “water sandals” that have lug bottoms and can do relatively well in gravel and small rock environments. If you will encounter very slippery bottom then you probably want to upgrade to a wading shoe or hip boots that have a felt bottom. Felt bottoms provide incredible traction on slick creeks. Add a wading staff and you are in business!

Rods and Reels

Chasing creek smallmouth bass often require down sizing baits so a medium power 6 - 6.5 foot rod is the ticket. Match that with a spinning or spin cast reel that can handle 6-8 pound test and you are ready to hit the water. I prefer spinning gear for creek smallies because that is usually the best tool for handling smaller baits.

Bait selection

Everyone has their favorite baits and you should always pack your favorites. Creek fishing though often requires finesse tactics. In particular, when the water is low, clear, and warm. Fish tend to get very wary under these conditions and a little lethargic. Smaller baits will increase you chances of success. Here are a few of my favorites.

1. 4 inch Berkley Power Worms rigged on a 1/8 or 1/16 oz jig head
2. 3″ Baby Stickworms and 4.25 ” Stickworm Jr.’s
3. Winco’s Creek Wacky Worm
4. Rebel Wee Craw or Teeny Craw crankbait
5. The Tiny Topedo by Headon

These baits will cover most situations you will encounter from the top of the water column to the bottom. The range of baits will also allow you to make preventions that will be effective in slow, medium, and faster current.

Gear Storage

There are tons of options for packing gear to the creek. You wont’ have much but having an organize tackle storage option will help you spend more time enjoying the fishing instead of digging through tackle. The classic fishing vest is always a great option. Another option are small soft sided tackle bags with over the solder straps and the ability to handle Plano 360 boxes. Last but not least, one of my favorites is the tackle fanny pack. They stay out of your way, carry enough gear for a day on the creek, and offer quick access to that gear.

Fishing Strategy

I grew up fishing limestone streams and tiny clear creeks for smallmouth bass. Creek smallmouth can be as weary as the illusive summer brook trout. Your best approach will be to fish moving upstream and make long casts. This will increase the odds of you making a good bait presentation before fish know your in their neighborhood.

I’ll typically do some creek fishing about every other week. It’s a great way to relax after work or for a few hours on a Saturday afternoon. You’ll also want to remember that small creeks do not always mean small fish. Several years ago I was fishing a creek that I could cross in about three bit hops and caught a 20.5 inch smallmouth bass. What a surprise and a memory! The moral of the story, don’t under estimate a creek. Always be ready for the smallmouth bass of a lifetime!

I recently had the good fortune to be one the the “first kids on my block” to receive a Temple Fork Outfitters Gary Loomis Signature Series rod. Now that’s  a mouthful! Like any serious fisherman, I was first overjoyed with my new acquisition. After my head came out of the clouds, I proceed to put the rod through the paces over the period of several weeks. Overall I found the rod to offer exceptional performance and  value for a rod in the 100 dollar price range. It met or exceeded my expectations in a number of area. It’s no wonder Field & Stream called this series the “Best New Spinning Rod of 2010”.

The rod I chose to field test was a 7.5 foot spinning rod with medium power and a fast action. I selected the rod specifically for kayak fishing and tossing unweighted finesse baits such as a three inch soft stickbait. I like 7 - 7.5 foot rods for kayak fishing. Rods of this length increase your casting distance, make it easier to leverage fish from a low vantage point, and allow you to work a smallmouth bass around almost any kayak bow.

Ok…enough with the technical stuff…time for the review.

First Impressions

The fist thing I noticed out of the box about this rod was that it balanced very well. Some longer rods that I own are very tip heavy. The rod is still a little tip heavy at 7.5 feet but it is not as pronounced as I anticipated. The overall workmanship of the rods is excellent. The “fit” and “finish” is first class. The wraps are well done, the guides are straight and the split grip handle is nicely done. The AAA cork handle has synthetic rings at both ends of the fore grip, grip, and fighting butt that make them more durable. The Signature Series Rods also sport SIC guides, one of the hardest insert materials available.

One of the great things about these TFO rods is that you do not need to read the fine print on the rod blank to determine what power rod you have in your hands. Each power has a specific color on the exposed blank of the split grip handle. For example, my medium light power spinning rod has a silver color on the exposed blank of the split grip. That’s great for guys like me who pile a minimum of 5 rods into a kayak or boat. Color coding makes it easy to be sure I have the right rod in my hand.

Casting

The medium light power rod casts my unweighted baits like a bullet. The rod loads nicely and stores a lot of energy. On the forward cast, the rod blank generates good acceleration and launches a three inch stickbait more than a respectable distance. This is what I was hoping for and the TFO rod delivered.  The Loomis Signature Series is  definitely a smooth ride.

Sensitivity

I fished the TFO Gary Loomis Signature Series Rod using both monofilament line and 6/20 braid with a 10lb. test fluorocarbon leader. I found the sensitivity exceptional using both monofilament an braided lines for a rod in this price range . Honestly, because of the length of the rod and the medium light power, I had concerns that I would not be able to feel those subtle “taps” often associated with finesse’n smallmouth bass. My fears were quickly calmed once I started fishing. Even with a slight bow in the line caused by the current, I could certainly feel those taps. In addition to unweighted plastics, I also threw some 3 inch worms on a 1/16 oz jig head and found that I could feel bottom and even the subtle difference when a twig or some random water plants were hung on my bait.

Fighting Performance

During the past several weeks I’ve probably caught close to 100 smallmouth on the Gary Loomis Signature Series Rod. The medium light power, fast action rod has ample backbone to wear out even the most rambunctious, broad shouldered smallmouth. The length of the rod I chose was also a bonus when trying to work a smallmouth around the bow of my kayak.

The Temple Fork Outfitter’s Gary Loomis Signature Series Rod definitely exceeded my expectations for a rod in this price range. Are there rods that are more sensitivity, lighter, and have more bells and whistles? We all know  that answer to that…yes. However, at the 100 dollar price point this rod offers exceptional quality. If you are a budge minded angler, who still wants a quality product, the Gary Loomis Signature Rod by TFO should be at the top of your list. I know I’m already planning a second rod. I need a new soft jerkbait rod!

I’m a huge fan of top water baits; All kinds of top water baits such as poppers, prop baits and walk-the-dog baits. If there’s a good top water bite on, you can be rest assured that I’ll be tossing one of these baits. In particular, prop baits and walk-the-dog baits are among my favorite lures. I typically don’t like to take a lot of time to customize top water baits because many are great right out of the box. That being said, I’m certainly not apposed to making simple modifications that will increase effectiveness.

Over the years, I’ve observed that some of my most effective top water color patterns have one thing in common. Regardless of the type of bait, the best producers have some shade of red on the underside of the lure. When shopping for top water baits, this has led to some frustrations. Sometimes the color patterns with red are sold out. Other times there’s a color pattern that I like but it has no red in it. Still other times I find a great top water bait with a unique action but the manufacturer does not offer a color pattern with red in it.

My solution? It’s pretty simple. When I get a new top water lure that I want to modify, I take a red sharpie and color a dot under the head of the bait. I always put the dot under the head. Smallmouth seem to lock in on the red dot and this results in more front treble hookups.

It is best to color the baits well in advance of fishing to allow for drying time. Sharpies work but the color eventually does come off. This is particularly true with plastic baits. Wood baits, on the other hand, hold the color much better. Another rather inexpensive option for coloring your baits is Do-It Quick Coat Pain Markers. This is definitely a more durable, permanent solution.

I don’t color all my top water baits. If I have 3 baits with the same pattern, I’ll usually only “red dot” one of the baits. Just in case, however, I have a red sharpie stowed in my gear for water-side modifications or in the event I need to touch up a bait. Remember to dry the bait thoroughly before touching it up.

Making simple color modifications to baits is certainly nothing new but I’m surprised a lot more anglers don’t do it. It only takes a few seconds and can help you put more smallmouth in the boat. In my mind, that’s a great trade off!

Smallmouth bass are effective predators that thrive in rocky, generally shallow rivers.This makes sense given their preferred prey. They comb the rock strewn river bottom and ledges for their number one delicacy, the crayfish.

It’s no wonder that over the years fisherman have been using crankbaits to catch untold numbers of those chunky bronze river fighters. A crankbait skipping and bouncing off the rock of the river is a great “imitator” of a crayfish scurrying along the river bottom.

I’ve encountered many fisherman over the years that struggle to catch fish with crankbaits. In talking to these anglers, many times I find that just small adjustments help them improve their catch rates. Bottom line, the key to successful crankbait fishing is ultimately presentation. Some of the primary factors that you should consider when trying to increase your success with crankbaits are depth, deflection, and design.

Depth

Most of the rivers I fish for smallmouth bass are shallow. Typically, I’m fishing in 5 feet of water or less. When making my crankbait selection I try to determine what depth I am going to present my bait at then select a crankbait that dives a foot or so below the maximum depth. For example, If I’m fishing crankbaits on current breaks with an average depth of four feet, I’ll select a Bandit 100 crankbait that dives up to 5 feet.

I want my bait to make continuous contact with the river bottom but I don’t want it diggin in so much that it gets hung up all the time. In general, I’ve found that selecting a cranbait with just slightly more diving depth occomplishes this. I get a lot of contact with the bottom and very few hang ups. This also more closely mimics the movements of a crayfish swimming along the river bottom.

Deflection

Not only do you want a crankbait making constant contact with the bottom, but you also want to maximize its angle of deflection off obstacles. More extreme deflection adds to the presentation and can trigger strikes.

There are two ways to increase deflection. First, use crankbaits with square bills. One of my favorite crankbaits is the Bandit 100 which has a square bill. The corner of the bill catches on rocks and create more deflection. Rounded bills tend to slide off rocks. Second, use monofiliment line. Mono stretches. When a square billed crankbait hits a rock, it momentarily hangs up causing the mono to stretch. Once the bill “breaks free”, the line will snap back creating more acceleration and increase the angle of deflection.

Design

When I refer to “design”, I really mean the color pattern on the crankbait. Honestly, I don’t get real hung up on trying to exactly match the hatch even in clear water. I’m more interested in color combination and contrast. Color patterns you’ll want to have on hand are olive greens, browns, oranges, and reds.

Crankbaits can be fished in clear or muddy water. In clearer water, i’ll use natural looking color designs that more closely mimic crayfish like browns, olive greens, or oranges. These handful of colors will produce in most conditions.

In muddy or more stained water, I go to more reds and oranges with darker more contrasting back colors. I think the contrast is important from a visual standpoint in muddy water. Contrast is even more important than the specific colors you are using many times.

Conclusion
In the world of crankbait fishing, there are hundres of nueances, tips, techniqes, and presenations that can help you catch more fish. In the spirit of “keeping it simple”, I’ve selected depth, deflection, and design because I believe they represent some of the core concepts necessary to be a truly great crankbait fisherman. The next time you hit your local smallie river think about the three D’s and apply them.

Here are our six picks for best new rods under $100

Abu Garcia Vendetta

The Vendetta is “factory balanced” to balance with the Revo and Soron reels. It features at Fuji Soft Touch reel seat, Pac Bay zirconium guides and EVA foam grip. Priced at $79.95 and $89.95.

St Croix Mojo Bass

The Mojo is built on a SC-II graphite blank and features Fuji ECS reel seat, split grip & Batson Forecast guides. It is available  in technique specific models and comes with a 5 year warranty.

Lamiglas Excel

The Lamiglas Excel is entirely made and built in the USA.  These are rumored to use the same blank as the higher priced Certified Pro models. They feature Fuji exposed blank reel seats and split grips. Many of the models are in the $150 MSRP range, but pricing for the series starts at $99.95.

Wright & McGill Skeet Reese Signature Series Tessera

These rods, design by Skeet Reese, feature “S-Curve” blank construction for superior strength, lifting power, sensitivity and weight reduction. They have a split grip, large fighting butt, molded rubber handles and zirconium guides. Priced at $89.99.

Falcon BuCoo

The Falcon BuCoo uses blanks made in the USA , feature exposed blank reel seats, Fuji Hardloy guides, split grips and use EVA lightweight foam. These rods weigh in at under 4 oz. which is pretty amazing for a sub $100 rod. Pricing starts at $99.99.

Temple Fork Outfitters Gary Loomis Signature Series

TFO’s Gary Loomis Signature rods are color coded by power for easy identification. All of the rods in the series are fast action.  They feature split grips and SIC guides.  Priced at $99.95.

The Magazine covers productive techniques on fishing for smallmouth bass, muskie, walleye and catfish in the Susquehanna River, while promoting safety and responsible stewardship of the Susquehanna River.

Susquehanna Fishing Magazine is a free publication that is available at Bass Pro Shops, Dick’s Sporting Goods, visitor’s bureaus, campgrounds, local tackle shops and marine centers throughout the region.

To learn more about Susquehanna Fishing Magazine checkout their website at SusquehannaFishing.com