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The Bronzebacks of Lake Powell

It was one of those glorious late October mornings. The brilliant sun that had taken the chill off the day sparkled against Lake Powell's crystal clear waters and cast its rays against the pink and tan cliffs and buttes of Padre Canyon leaving those long shadows so typical of autumn. A heron was wading in some shallow water waiting for a shad to come too close while myriads of grebes lazily paddled about on the flat calm surface.

But as beautiful as this was my mind was not on the high desert scenery. I was searching for bronze as in bronzebacks. I was working along a steep cliff watching my depth finder. Soon I saw a pod of arches at about 25 feet over a 40-foot bottom. I picked up my drop shot rod and dropped a wacky rigged Senko directly below the transducer mounted on my trolling motor. On my graph I was able to see a thin double line moving down towards the arches. When it reached those signals I engaged my reel and my rod immediately bent over double. Line ripped off my reel and soon I felt that familiar headshake which told me a dandy smallmouth bass was on the end of my line. After a typical bulldog-like fight I swung a chunky 2 ½- pounder on board. The circle hook was lodged in the corner of the fish's mouth - a perfect hook set. I unhooked the bronze-barred fighter and quickly returned it to the water.

No sooner than I had slipped that bass back into the lake my partner was hooked up with another scrappy smallmouth of nearly the same size. For the next 45 minutes we worked along that cliff and took 12 more nice smallmouths - a typical autumn morning on this beautiful reservoir.

Early Spanish explorers passed through Glen Canyon in search of gold, however few of today's visitors are aware of the bronze treasure that swims in Powell's clear depths. Each year approximately one million people visit Lake Powell. Many do it as part of the Grand Circle tour that includes Grand Canyon, Bryce and Zion Canyon National Parks. Many more come to rent houseboats, ride jet skis or just hang out and enjoy the awesome cliffs, buttes and canyons, however relatively few people visit Lake Powell just to fish. Even in Phoenix, AZ, only 265 miles away, surprisingly few fishermen are aware of just how good the angling is here. Right now Lake Powell may be the most underrated fishery in the U.S.

Part of Lake Powell's identity problem today may be related to its past. Created in 1964 with the completion of Glen Canyon Dam on the Colorado River, the main channel at full pool extends some 180 miles from Page, AZ, to Hite, UT. In its early years this massive impoundment was a premiere largemouth bass and crappie fishery as both species found the newly flooded sagebrush and tamarisk trees ideal habitat. But by the time the lake first reached full pool in the early 1980s most of this brushy cover had rotted away. Largemouth and crappie numbers declined in relationship to the loss of brushy habitat. Stripers, which were introduced in 1972, spawned in unexpectedly high numbers. Many old time anglers blame the stripers for the decline in largemouth and crappie populations, however the silver beasts have had little to do with it. Habitat loss was the critical factor in the decline of those fisheries.

Noting this decline, Utah biologist Wayne Gustaveson looked for a species better suited for Powell's clear, rocky and almost brush-free habitat. The answer he believed was smallmouth bass. The first stockings were made in 1982 with repeated stockings the following years. By the end of the decade smallmouths had spread through the entire lake. As Gustaveson predicted they thrived in this environ. In fact they did too well. With virtually unlimited spawning habitat and few predators, the bronzebacks, combined with the already established striper population, were simply too much for the lake's threadfin shad forage base. Unfortunately the lake didn't produce enough crayfish or small sunfish to fill the gap. The result was millions of stunted smallmouth and skinny, starving stripers.

To deal with this problem Gustaveson took all the limits off stripers and embarked on a public campaign to encourage anglers to catch and harvest these fish. Although fishermen responded by harvesting stripers in unprecedented numbers, it wasn't enough as Gustaveson's creel survey data revealed that anglers were releasing 90% of all smallmouth caught. In 2002 he increased the limit on smallmouth from six to 20 fish encouraging anglers to keep smallmouth in the nine to 12-inch range while voluntarily releasing the bigger ones. While the idea of keeping smallmouth was hard for bass fishermen indoctrinated with the "catch-and-release-keeping-any-bass-is-sin" mentality, Gustaveson, through his website, was able to effectively communicate the need for smallmouth harvest. Anglers again responded, and the program has been a smashing success. The average size smallmouth caught has jumped from nine inches in the spring of 2002 to well over 13 inches by 2004. The number of fish caught over two pounds has risen dramatically, and even bigger fish were finding their way onto anglers' lines this past fall. Hopefully in the next few years we'll be seeing lots three and four-pounders, and Gustaveson believes the lake record of 5 pounds 6 ounces won't last for long.

The key for continued smallmouth growth will be the forage. Threadfin shad have had three banner years in a row. Some of this might be attributed to the smallmouth and striper harvest programs, however Gustaveson believes the receding waters caused by the western drought may be helping production by releasing old bottom sediments. A wildcard in the forage picture may be the gizzard shad that found their way into Powell a few years ago. The gizzards were accidentally stocked in a small lake in the San Juan drainage in New Mexico and eventually drifted into Powell. First discovered in 2000, they now populate most of the lake. In contrast to the boom-and-bust threadfins, gizzards seem to be more consistent in their year-to-year production. Their downside is they grow faster and get bigger than threadfins - too big for smallmouth consumption within several months after they are hatched. Still, it is hoped the gizzards will fill the forage void during lean threadfin years.

Regardless of the future, Lake Powell's smallmouth fishing in at least the short term promises to get nothing but better. Although Powell's bronzebacks can be caught year around, the best fishing runs from April 15 to November 15 with May and early June being top times. Although bronzebacks are still catchable in July and August, there is a definite drop off in fishing during these months. The action picks up again in mid-September and good fishing usually remains until mid-November or until the water temperature drops into the mid 50s.

Powell smallmouth and soft plastic baits go together like apple pie and ice cream. The Series 40 (four-inch) single tail grub made by Gary Yamamoto Custom Baits has probably accounted for more Lake Powell bronzebacks than any other lure. Used on both jig heads and split shot rigs, this lure has been the bait of choice for most local guides. In recent years, however, the Yamamoto Senko has become more and more popular particularly when fished as a drop shot bait. Because they are manufactured right on Powell's bank at Page, AZ, and because they flat out catch fish, Yamamoto soft plastics have a huge presence on Lake Powell. The double tailed Hula Grubs (spider jigs) fished on football head jigs are effective on larger smallmouth when they are on a crayfish bite. Small finesse worms fished either Texas-rigged, on jig heads or drop shot setups are highly underrated baits on Powell. Although Yamamoto makes a myriad of colors, you only need a few on Powell - shad colors like white, clear sparkle and daiquiri and crayfish colors like watermelon and root beer will cover most situations. Like bronzebacks everywhere, Powell's smallmouths just love chartreuse.

Although not used nearly as much as soft plastics, hard baits can be effective from time to time. Surface lures like the Baby Spook, Spit'N Image and Pop R can be dynamite on summer mornings at daybreak. Lipped crankbaits like Shad Raps and Wallydivers should be included in every tackle box, and last fall I had some good success on lipless crankbaits like Rattle Traps and Rattlin' Rapalas. Jigging spoons may be the most effective baits for bigger smallmouths in the late fall and winter months. Although not used by many Lake Powell anglers, spinnerbaits and buzz baits will produce good smallmouths under certain conditions.

The easiest fishing is in the spring. Normally around mid April Powell's smallmouths leave their deepwater haunts and fan out in the shallow coves looking for suitable spawning sites. Split shotting grubs and Senkos across the flats will often produce strikes on nearly every cast. Last April in one cove towards the back of Last Chance Bay a friend and I took over 30 smallmouths in a little over an hour dragging Senkos and grubs across a small flat. That flat was covered with head size boulders, and nearly every time we pitched a lure in the shadow of one of those boulders we got a strike.

After the spawn the bass leave the coves and move out to the edge of the flats, ends of points and along the sides of reefs. Although they might only be in eight to 10 feet of water, they will be very close to deep water. Broken rock substrate is far better structure than smooth slick rock. Fish right were the brown colored water marking the shallow bottom changes to dark blue-green and you will be on fish. This pattern normally holds up throughout the month of May and into early June. Catches of 30 to 50 smallmouths per day per person are not uncommon. The same soft plastic baits and presentations that were effective in April will be productive now, and crankbaits and surface lures will also take their share of fish.

By the middle of June Powell's bronzebacks drop off the sides of reefs, ends of points and down the rockslides to their midsummer haunts. While they might be susceptible to surface lures at daybreak and dusk, it's usually necessary to go down 25 to 40 feet to get them. This is where drop shotting shines. Small wacky rigged Senkos, finesse worms, grubs and even tubes fished on drop shot setups will produce good numbers of fat smallmouths. Shaking a Texas-rigged finesse worm also works well when the fish are feeding on crayfish. The biggest numbers of fish will come the sides of offshore reefs and around the points, however little ledges that stick out along the deep canyon walls will often produce the biggest fish. Don't overlook those 90-degree turns along the canyon walls of major tributaries. Those steep points, particularly if they contain a bit of broken rock, can harbor some of the biggest bass in the lake. A rockslide along a canyon wall that's not visible from the surface can be a bonanza for big smallmouths in early summer.

This pattern continues throughout the rest of the summer however there is a definite slow down from mid-July through August as the bass rest in preparation for the fall feeding frenzy. At this time most Powell anglers turn their attention to chasing striper boils. Still, an angler who hits the lake before dawn or right at dusk can expect to take some decent smallmouths working those deep patterns. This time of year is the monsoon season in the Grand Circle area, and fishermen and boaters need to be aware that sudden, violent thunderstorms can spring up with little warning. These usually occur in the late afternoon and evening, but I have seen them hit in the early morning hours as well. Those getting caught in a storm should get into a protected side canyon, beach the boat and wait it out. These storms normally don't last too long. On the plus side the monsoon season often brings in overcast conditions that can help the fishing and keep daytime temperatures down.

Fall is by far my favorite time to fish Powell. After Labor Day many of the hordes of jet skiers, house boaters and tail-dragging cabin cruisers leave the lake. The summer heat, which can be very oppressive, gives way to mild daytime temperatures. This serves as a signal to Powell's bronzebacks that it's time to get on the feed to fatten up for winter. In September the same deep-water patterns that produced in June will be effective, however as September turns into October packs of bigger smallmouths will be found following the shad just like the stripers. Early in the month shad will leave the open water areas and school up in coves along the main lake channel, and to catch the bigger smallmouths you must locate the shad. Shad schools will often appear as a riffle on the calm surface, and that's the easiest way to determine of shad are present in a cove. Work these coves with surface lures and shallow running crankbaits. If the bass aren't there, move out to the first drop off and fish drop shot rigs or even jigging spoons. It's quite common to catch a mixed bag of big smallmouths and stripers on this pattern with smallmouths often appearing in and around striper boils looking to pick off the crippled shad the stripers miss. During this time pan sized smallmouths can still be caught off the reefs, points and rockslides, however most of the big fellows will be following the shad.

Later in October the shad will migrate back into the canyons, and the big smallies will follow them right in. Again, looked for a riffled surface in the shallow cuts to signal the presence of shad. Smallmouths will either be feeding on those shad or resting out off the first drop off or along nearby canyon walls in 15-30 feet of water. A good depth finder is a necessity in locating them in these areas. Although they may not be actively feeding at these times, they are still suckers for a drop shot Senko or a jigging spoon. If shad are not plentiful in autumn, and that happens from time to time, Powell's smallmouth will locate on broken rock structure to feed on crayfish. Jigs and worms crawled and bounced along the bottom will produce good catches under those circumstances.

Fishing will be productive until surface temperatures drop into the mid-50s usually in mid to late November. So few fisherman pursue smallmouths on Powell during the winter months that not much is known about catching them then. Successful winter anglers fish deep and slow with jigs, spoons and drop shot rigs. Although I've not heard of this technique being used at Powell, the float 'n fly might work as well here as in other places in the winter. Winter will often produce some of the bigger bass, so figuring out the winter pattern is something I plan to do some day.

Light to medium action spinning and baitcasting outfits are fine for most Lake Powell smallmouth angling. Most anglers use six to eight-pound-test monofilament line, however I prefer to use 10-pound-test Bass Pro XPS fluorocarbon on my baitcasters and 10-pound-test Berkley Fireline or six-pound-test Stren fluorocarbon on my spinning gear. When I use Fireline I always add a fluorocarbon leader. Because Lake Powell smallmouth fishing is often a deepwater finesse affair, I want a highly sensitive line to detect strikes. Fireline has virtually no stretch and fluorocarbon, while having more stretch than Fireline, is certainly more sensitive than regular monofilament. Fluorocarbon is also virtually invisible in the water and that's important in Powell's crystal clear environ. If you do use regular mono, the green colored lines are a lot less visible in the water than clear. Clear monofilament has a glossy sheen, and on a sunny day can be seen as easily as an anchor rope even at 30 feet.

Lake Powell is located at 3700 feet elevation and in one of the driest areas of the U.S. This means temperatures can fluctuate greatly during the course of the day. Summertime temperatures will often exceed 100 in the afternoon, however it cools down quickly after sunset. Nighttime temperatures even in the middle of the summer can drop into the upper 50s. Early morning temperatures in the spring and late fall can be quite chilly, often in the upper 30s, however it is common even with such a chilly morning to see afternoon highs in the 60s or even low 70s. This means most of the time Lake Powell anglers will dress in layers, shedding outer garments as the day warms. A good sunscreen is essential, and plenty of drinking water should be on board at all times.

Although Powell is generally not a windy lake, high winds are possible in the spring and sometimes in the fall if an early season Pacific storm swoops in. In addition, the western drought of the past several years has left many of the up-lake shortcuts high and dry. This forces all boats to use the main channel, which is quite narrow in some areas, and these narrow areas can get quite rough from continuous boat traffic. A deep V boat is far better fishing craft for Powell than a semi-V bass boat. I consider a 17-foot deep V the safe minimum for Lake Powell fishing. There is no such thing as too big a boat for this lake. Because of Powell's altitude, most engines to lose 10 to 20% of their horsepower. It's usually necessary to drop down one pitch size on the prop in order to maintain proper RPM levels.

Currently there are six marinas on the lake, two on the lower end near Page, two at mid-lake (Bullfrog and Halls Crossing), Hite Marina at the far upper end and Dangling Rope near Rainbow Bridge. There is no road access to Dangling Rope. All supplies are hauled in on barges. Because of low water levels the past two years both the Hite Marina and launch ramp have been closed. Anglers wishing to fish the Hite area should inquire about launching and other services prior to going. Launching is currently available near the other four marinas with road access. Because it's a long distance between marinas boats with large capacity fuel tanks and fuel-efficient outboards are desirable.

Page has numerous motels and one good private campground. It also has two good grocery stores and a Wal-Mart. Fishing tackle can be purchased at Six Bait and Tackle and the Lake Powell Campground store, which is owned by Gary Yamamoto Custom Baits. The National Park Service operates a campground and RV park on Wahweap Bay. Wahweap Lodge also offers accommodations inside the park. There are campground and motel facilities located near the other drive-in marinas as well, but they are more limited than those in and around Page. Camping is permitted on the shores of Powell, and houseboat camping trips are quite popular in the summer months.

Besides its great smallmouth fishing, Lake Powell is a world-class striper fishery and has underutilized walleye and channel catfish populations. Limited populations of largemouth bass and crappie still hold out, mainly in the backs of the tributaries. The Colorado River below Glen Canyon Dam is a blue ribbon tailwater trout fishery.

Although Glen Canyon Dam is in Arizona, a vast majority of Lake Powell is in Utah. Utah and Arizona resident license holders can purchase a Lake Powell stamp that allows them to fish both Arizona and Utah waters, however nonresidents must purchase separate licenses from each state if they want to fish over the entire lake. If you only plan to buy just one license then I'd suggest Utah as most of the better fishing is on that portion of the lake.

So if you're planning a trip to the Grand Canyon area why not spend a few days chasing Lake Powell bronzebacks? Once you discover the bronze treasure of Glen Canyon you'll want to come back over and over again!

For up to date information on Lake Powell fishing as well as marina facilities, launch ramp and camping availability, check out biologist Wayne Gustaveson's website at www.wayneswords.com. In addition to the above information it also contains links to guide services and other pertinent information about the area.

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