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Later that week, I purchased several of these heavy, clunky
baits. The next opportunity I had to try them was on the
upper Potomac near Hancock, Maryland. Using them for the
first time, I thought back to remember how the tidal largemouth
anglers had jigged them. I recalled a short cast, a pendulum
swing, and regular short rips up off the bottom. I tried
this out, and snagged on almost every cast for the next
half hour. Then I tied on a tube and forgot about the lure
that aggravated me so much. Fast forward almost 8 years
to early November of this year. On the reservoir, I had
found recent success with crankbaits, catching several nice
smallmouth, and two 22 inch largemouth. From mid October
though early November, I was able to connect at least 3
times a day with a decent largemouth or smallmouth. More
importantly, I had overcome my aversion to crankbaits. I
knew that they caught big fish, but previously would not
throw due to the frustration of snagging and having so many
fish throw the bait. I was able to land almost every fish
thanks to having the right tool for the job: a 7 foot fiberglass
crankbait casting rod. Before this fall, I had used the
wrong rod for crankbaiting: medium heavy graphite jig rods.
The fiberglass rod threw the big deep divers a long way,
and bowed to a hooked fish which prevented the frustration
of seeing a big hooked fish get off. I had a new confidence
bait in the deep diving crankbait.
While throwing the big white Norman crankbait parallel
to a 45 degree rocky shoreline, I noticed an electric boat
angler nearby. His fishing line angle was steeper than the
contour of the bank I was working. He would cast a short
distance, let the bait fall, and then pop his rod tip upward
a short distance and repeat. I started paddling across the
reservoir to a point I wanted to fish when this angler started
motoring in my direction. As we passed, we greeted each
other and eventually stopped to talk about the day's patterns.
While talking, the angler mentioned that come December,
the only bait he will throw will be the blade bait. He showed
me a tray full of them in many different colors. He poured,
painted, and assembled them himself. He also explained the
technique for fishing them:
Cast out a short distance, let the bait fall on a taught
line, waiting for the feel of the bait hitting the bottom,
lift the rod tip up quickly, but stop as soon as you feel
two of the vibrations that the bait makes while it swims.
Follow the lure back down to the bottom with your rod tip
on taught line. This drop is usually when the bait gets
nailed, so make sure you don't drop your rod tip faster
than the lure sinks. Any slack in the line may mean a missed
hit. If the lure stops short of where you remember the bottom
being, set the hook because the silver buddy is in a fish's
mouth! He emphasized several times to only let the lure
vibrate two times on the rip upward.
I skeptically asked if they were worth the effort. I explained
that I had tried them before, and like crankbaits, I got
frustrated with how often they snagged. He leaned down to
his carpeted boat deck, and picked up a thick little chunk
of lead with a paper clip molded into it. He explained that
he did snag routinely, but they usually come off easily
under their own weight. But if they did not come free on
their own, the little chunk of lead slid down the line would
knock it free every time. He mentioned a few times that
the casting angle has a lot to do with how often you snag.
Steeper line angles mean fewer snags. That is probably what
I was doing wrong on the upper Potomac 8 years prior. It's
probably not the best lure for shallow river fishing unless
you cast and retrieve like a spinnerbait. I plan on trying
just that next spring with a few of the lighter weight blade
baits, as the action resembles that of a rattle trap.
Knowing that I would probably snag several of them permanently,
I decided to make the blade baits expendable. The following
week, I ordered the lead pouring mold for blade baits. I
had to use my dremmel tool to open the bottleneck of the
pour funnel on the mold. With the plate coming so close
to the opening, I did not get good pours initially. I eventually
poured enough so that I would not worry if I lost a few.
Along with the plates and mold that I ordered from Barlow's
tackle, I purchased some adhesive scale tape for added reflectivity.
I also ordered short shank trebles in the hopes that a shorter
hook would snag less.
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Pouring your own blade baits makes them expendable.
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After pouring the lead onto the plate, apply
reflective scale tape or glittery paint, a line tie
clip, split rings, short shank trebles, and paint
the eyes.
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As Steve, the electric boat angler mentioned, casting angle
played the biggest role in how often you snag. The first
day using them, I only had three of them with me. My order
from Barlow's had not arrived at that point. I had two gold
ones that I was able to dig up from 8 years prior, and one
that Steve had given me. I thought for sure that I would
be out of them in the first hour or so. As it turned out,
I used the same one all day and never lost it. I did bring
a stump up from 53 feet, but I did not lose a single bait
in over 8 hours of fishing. I snagged every few minutes
all day long, but they usually came free as soon as I jiggled
the rod tip, or changed my line angle a little bit. Although
I did not lose a bait that first day, I also did not catch
a smallmouth with one.
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On the more difficult snags, the lead weight and
paperclip bait knocker did a good job knocking the
bait free. What was nice about this home-made plug
knocker was that it was inexpensive, and you didn't
need to worry about an attached string to tangle up
in your boat. From Steve's brief description of how
to make the blade bait knocker, I was able to make
a few. His directions were: drill a 2 inch deep hole
in a 2 x 4 with a 1 inch bit, pour hot lead into the
hole, and hold the paperclip in the hot lead with
pliers, making sure that one end of the clip is bent
out so you can slip the weight onto you line. I had
to bang on the 2 x 4 with a hammer to get it out.
Homemade bait knockers help free snagged blade
baits without the tangles of a standard plug knocker.
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The next day on the reservoir, I stuck with the blade bait
even though I had been skunked a week prior. By then I had
poured, decorated, and assembled several blade baits from
3/8 oz to ¾ oz. That day it was windy, so I used the heavier
ones to keep the line taught and stay in contact with the
bottom. During the prior week, I did a Google search on
blade baits and read several articles. One of them said
that most anglers rip blade baits too hard and too far.
I decided to tone it down a little. It paid off, as I caught
four smallmouth, the largest being a 16 incher.
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The next weekend out, I ended up catching seven smallmouth,
and a few largemouth. None of them were very big,
but seven smallmouth in a day was one of my better
numbers days this year on the reservoir. I found myself
making the pop off the bottom shorter and shorter.
Some of the hits came on slow, gently lifts four inches
or less off the bottom. I got used to what "normal"
felt like in terms of the cadence of lift, lower,
clank on rock, lift, lower, clank, lift lower, clank….
When something felt a little bit different, I set
the hook.
This 18.5 incher thumped the blade bait on a short
quick hop off the bottom.
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I got into a rhythm of lift, lower, clank, and the lifts
became smaller and smaller until I just felt like I was
trying to get as many close bottom touches as possible.
I wasn't dragging it as I would drift and drag a tube, but
it was seldom more than an inch or two off the bottom. It
reminded me of what my friend Brook Hoover does with a ball
head jig and soft plastic when winter fishing on the Susquehanna
River. He gets the jig to the bottom, settled against a
rock, and shakes his rod tip rapidly on a taught line. The
rod tip does not move back and forth more than 2 inches,
and the bait stays in place rattling and clicking its lead
against the rock, drawing in fish.
The next fish hit so softly that the only difference I
felt was an interruption of my tiny lift, lower, and clank.
I imagined the bait laying on its side, then the plate going
upright without leaving the bottom, and then laying back
down. I didn't feel it lay back down. Not sure if it was
a fish, I set the hook. Honestly, I fully expected to feel
the rapid vibration of the bait ripping several feet up
off the bottom. Instead, I felt that the lure was snagged.
Then the snag throbbed, my rod tip dipped, and my drag went
ZZZZiiiing!
After the 20 inch reservoir smallmouth dipped the first
few inches of my spinning rod into the water a few times,
I netted the fish and headed toward the shoreline to take
a picture.

This 20 inch reservoir smallmouth softly
took a 3/4 oz blade blade bait that was jiggled on the rocks
of a mid reservoir ledge peak 40 feet down.
Although I have only four full days of blade bait fishing
under my belt, this simple yet effective bait is my confidence
bait of choice for fishing deep reservoir structure. But
I have to wonder, is this just a cold water bait, or will
it work next June after the spawn wraps up? I plan on finding
out.
Jeff "Yakfish" Little is owner of Blue Ridge
Kayak Fishing LLC
www.blueridgekayakfishing.com, which provides kayak
fishing instruction for river smallmouth, tidal largemouth,
and reservoir bass in Maryland and Virginia.
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